Housing Chinchillas - CagesSelecting the most appropriate cage for a chinchilla can be a confusing and somewhat expensive process. With their increasing popularity as pets, there has been an increasing variety of cages marketed for chinchillas. Choosing the correct cage is one of the most important aspects of chinchilla husbandry. An incorrect or inadequate cage can be costly; not only in monetary terms because cages can be expensive but also in health terms for the chinchilla. Chinchillas are rock hoppers and prefer space to move; the bigger the cage the better. There is something truly wonderful about watching a chinchilla (or chinchillas) exploring their environment and hopping about safely, knowing they cannot fall too far and damage themselves. The ideal cage for a chinchilla is low and wide rather than high and narrow. Tall cages can be modified with wooden shelves so that the chinchilla cannot fall more than 18 inches. Traditional chinchilla cages are of all mesh design (16 gauge, ¾ inch galvanised mesh), including the base of the cage. This type of cage is preferred by chinchilla breeders and those who show their animals for several reasons. > Mesh cages allow debris and waste to fall through the floor onto trays of newspaper below, thus preventing the animals from standing or sitting in their own waste matter. This is important because chinchilla fur is easily soiled and stained; chinchillas are naturally clean animals and do not like to be dirty. It is also an important factor in keeping animals clean for showing. > Mesh cages are easy to maintain and clean. Cages can be wiped down quickly and the mesh does not retain any urine odour. > No requirement for messy bedding or wood shavings. Trays or shelving under the cages are covered in a layer of newspaper which is then changed once or twice a week. It is quick and easy. Keeping the chinchillas comfortable in mesh cages is very important and is achieved by using wooden shelves, nest boxes, or platforms which can be easily replaced or moved. This can also prevent ulcerative pododermatitis (bumblefoot) which can develop in unclean cages or where there is extreme pressure on the feet (such as permanently standing on mesh). Small, boring cages can lead to behavioural problems such as repetitive stress behaviours and fur chewing, therefore, toys etc can also be added but care must be taken that the fixtures and fittings do not damage the cage mesh and lead to injury. There are other types of cage on the market and some are more suitable for chinchillas than others. Aviary type cages have been used because of the space they provide and the cages can be made “chinchilla safe” by using shelving and platforms to prevent falls. Solid based cages are available, however there are several considerations when using these types of cage. >Some form of litter is required. Wood shavings and other forms of litter must be “safe” since chinchillas will undoubtedly ingest some of it. Soiled food and waste materials can be reached and ingested causing digestive upsets and the chinchilla’s fur may become soiled. There is also a possibility of bumblefoot due to standing in wet litter. > Requires frequent cleaning; daily to remove soiled bedding, waste material and soiled food. > May require adaptation for use with chinchillas – including safety aspects e.g gaps or inappropriate bar spacing where toes could get trapped. > Wooden housing will be destroyed rapidly due to the chinchilla’s constant chewing and urine staining leads to odour which requires frequent replacement of wood. >Plastic cages & cage parts (shelves etc) should be avoided to prevent possible ingestion of the plastic which might result in gut blockage. >Aviary style and other designed cages are undoubtedly more attractive than the all mesh cages. For owners of one or two pet chinchillas, solid floored or aviary style cages may be appropriate (as long as they are adapted for chinchillas and cleaned out regularly) but these would be impractical for owners who have a large number of chinchillas. © Website designed & created by Stephen Brewster.
Banner graphics by Talie Smith Articles and photos not to be used without permission |
|||